You don’t forget your first roof after a hurricane. Mine was a low-slope in Little Havana, gravel still glistening with brackish water, every seam lifted like a peeled label. The owner, an older gentleman with a cigar habit and a photo of his grandkids taped to the fridge, just wanted it dry enough so they could sleep without buckets. That is the real heart of roofing repair in Miami after hurricanes. It isn’t glossy before-and-after shots, it’s messy triage followed by meticulous work under unpredictable skies.
What follows is a practical, field-tested way to move from storm damage to a durable repair. I’ll keep the rhythm you need when the power is out and the adjuster is late: what to do first, what to avoid, and how to get a roof ready for the next storm, not just the next sunny afternoon.
The morning after: safety and triage
After a hurricane, don’t climb on a roof until you’ve done a ground-level safety sweep. Downed lines are not always obvious. A wire draped across a ficus can be live even if your block is dark. I’ve watched a seasoned foreman stop a homeowner from walking into a sagging service drop simply by pointing out the faint hum it made in the wind. Trust that instinct. If a line is anywhere near the roof, call FPL or the city, then wait.
When it’s safe, look up, not down. Your driveway may be peppered with shingles and tiles from three different houses. The clue is in how your roof looks from the street: missing tile fields, exposed underlayment, creased asphalt shingles that look like bent playing cards, torn metal panels that have curled back like sardine lids. Water marks under soffits tell you wind-driven rain breached the edge. If sections of fascia are missing, there’s often hidden sheathing damage behind them.
Inside, follow the drip lines. Ceiling stains are the obvious markers, but in Miami’s humidity, a room can smell damp before you see a spot. Push gently on drywall near ceiling corners. If it bows or crumbles, water pooled above it. In kitchens, open the cabinets along exterior walls and feel the backs. Wet plywood here points to wind-blown intrusion through vents or roof-to-wall transitions, not just open field damage.
The goal that first day is quick stabilization. Think in layers: stop active leaks, cover exposed areas, move valuables, document everything. The bigger fix comes later.
Documentation that insurers respect
Adjusters like clear, time-stamped evidence and an orderly timeline. You don’t need a film degree, just consistency. Take wide shots of each elevation, then close-ups of each damaged area with a reference item for scale, like a tape measure or a coin. Photograph each room with visible leaks. Pan slowly so you catch context — the leak above a kitchen island matters differently than a laundry room corner.
Save a short video on your phone walking from the front sidewalk through the house to the worst leak. Speak plainly: “October 2, 9:10 a.m., steady drip in living room, wind from east last night, roof faces east.” I’ve had claims move faster when the narrative matched weather data and compass orientation.
Keep a simple list of emergency expenses. Blue tarps, plastic sheeting, contractor garbage bags, a roll of butyl tape, a box of 2-inch ring-shank nails. Tape receipts to a blank sheet of paper, snap a photo, email it to yourself. When the adjuster asks, you’ll be ready.
Tarping that actually holds in Miami wind
Everyone owns a tarp after a hurricane; not everyone knows how to make it behave. The biggest mistake I see is nailing tarps like blankets over a bed. In South Florida gusts, that creates a sail, not a seal. Aim for low profile and smooth load paths. The tarp should be an outer membrane, not the structure.
Start by drying the deck surface where possible. A leaf blower and towels work if the sun is out. Avoid putting weight on soft areas. For shingle roofs, slide a 1x3 batten under the top edge of the tarp and roll the tarp around it once or twice, creating a hemmed edge. Fasten through the batten into trusses or rafters when you can locate them, not just sheathing. Ring-shank nails or exterior screws with fender washers hold better than roofing nails. On tile, don’t nail into tile. Span from ridge to eave, and anchor to structural wood at the ridge board, gable ends, or to the eave fascia with backer boards so you spread the load.
Where vents or stacks poke through, cut an X, pull the flap edges up, and use high-tack butyl tape around the penetration before laying a small patch of tarp or peel-and-stick over it. Finish with a bead of polyurethane sealant. It looks fussy, but it prevents wind-driven rain from sneaking under the main cover.
On metal roofs, tarping gets tricky. Smooth panels are slick and fasteners can be compromised. In many cases, a peel-and-stick roof underlayment, even a temporary roll, under the loose panel edge buys more time than a flapping tarp. If you don’t have peel-and-stick, a strategic line of butyl tape at laps and fasteners, followed by a well-secured tarp at the eave with sandbags rather than nails, might be the safer stopgap.
Know your roof type, know the likely failures
Miami roofs fall roughly into three categories: asphalt shingles, concrete or clay tile, and metal. Flat or low-slope membranes are common on additions, carports, and some mid-century homes.
Asphalt shingles suffer from uplift and creasing. If the seal strips broke in the storm, they won’t re-bond reliably. You can hand-seal with roofing cement under the tabs in a pinch, but brittle or creased shingles should be replaced. Watch valleys and transitions, not just open fields. A shingle valley that lost a few pieces can funnel water under otherwise intact areas.
Tile behaves differently. The tiles are water-shedding, not waterproof. The underlayment is the true roof. After hurricanes, I see tiles dislodged by wind or airborne branches, especially along rakes and ridges. A few broken tiles aren’t the emergency they look like if the underlayment below is 2-ply felt or a modern self-adhered membrane in good shape. But older underlayments, especially single-ply felt from the early 2000s, can be sun-baked and ready to tear. If you can lift a tile near damage and the underlayment crumbles or cracks, expect more comprehensive work than a simple tile swap.
Metal roofs hold up well if installed with proper clip spacing and fastener patterns, but edge metal is a weak point. Loss of fascia or drip edge invites water to run behind the panels. If you see oil-canning worsened after the storm or rows of backed-out screws, the wind likely flexed panels enough to loosen fasteners. The fix is not just retightening; you need to evaluate whether the fasteners are stripped and whether the gaskets still seal.
Flat roofs, usually modified bitumen or single-ply membranes, fail at seams, scuppers, and ponding areas. After hurricanes, leaves clog drains and water ponds, stressing seams. A temporary peel-and-stick patch over a cleaned and dried seam can save a ceiling, but don’t trap moisture; if the insulation below is saturated, it needs attention.
When repair is realistic and when replacement is smarter
It’s tempting to treat every storm like a one-off, but Florida building code and insurance math make some repairs poor investments. If more than 25 percent of your roof area needs structural repair or re-roofing within a 12-month period, the code can trigger a full replacement for that section. That 25 percent threshold is not a loophole to exploit; it’s a durability standard. I’ve talked homeowners out of chasing patch after patch when the underlayment was at the end of life and the math was clear.
Consider age. A 17-year-old shingle roof that just lost 10 bundles in one quadrant might be eligible for repairs, but it will look mottled and the remaining seals are suspect. Spend the money where it counts: upgrade underlayment, improve fastener patterns, and correct edge details during replacement. On a tile roof, you can often salvage and reset the tiles while replacing the underlayment. This preserves neighborhood aesthetics and reduces material costs, but it is labor heavy. Plan for it to take longer than a shingle tear-off.
Metal can often be repaired economically if panel engagement is intact and damage is localized to eaves or rake edges. Replace compromised panels and rework eave details with new drip edge and closures. If fastener holes are wallowed out, stepping up a diameter with new screws and neoprene washers is better than loading sealant onto stripped threads.
Step-by-step repair workflow that gets results
This is the sequence my crew follows after hurricanes, adjusted by roof type and severity. Skip steps only when a licensed pro has a clear reason to.
- Stabilize and dry. Stop active leaks with tarps or peel-and-stick patches. Clear drains and scuppers. Use fans and dehumidifiers inside to minimize secondary damage. Inspect systematically. Start at eaves, move to rakes, then ridges and field. Lift suspect materials gently to assess underlayment. Document as you go. Plan the scope and pull permits. For Miami-Dade, hurricane-related repairs still need permits if you’re replacing underlayment, decking, or large shingle areas. Emergency dry-in can proceed, but permanent work should be permitted. Factor in Notice of Acceptance (NOA) requirements for materials. Remove and repair substrate. Replace rotten or delaminated sheathing. Fasten new panels with ring-shank nails or screws at proper spacing. Add blocking at edges if fascia or soffit damage compromised support. Rebuild the water control system. Install underlayment correctly for the roof type, rework flashing and edge metals, then restore the cladding, whether shingles, tile, or metal.
Those five steps sound simple on paper. The craft lives in all the tiny choices inside each one.
Underlayment choices that matter in Miami
Underlayment is insurance against the next storm as much as a waterproof layer for the current repair. On shingle roofs, a self-adhered modified bitumen underlayment along eaves, valleys, and penetrations, with high-quality synthetic underlayment in the field, outperforms old-school 15-pound felt. For hurricane repairs, I like a full self-adhered underlayment when budget allows. It buys time if shingles get wind-lifted again and keeps water out under pressure.
On tile, the standard in Miami today is a self-adhered underlayment rated for high temperatures and Miami-Dade NOA compliance. Two-ply hot-mopped felts still exist in older homes, but I don’t reinstall them. When we replace underlayment under tile, we also reassess battens and foam systems. Mechanical attachment with screws and clips at hips and ridges holds tiles better in gusts than foam-only installations.
For flat roofs, stick with a two-ply modified bitumen, torch-applied or self-adhered, or a top-tier single-ply with perimeter enhancements. After storms, many folks slap cold-applied mastics on seams. They can be a lifesaver for a week, but they crack in the sun. If you patch, plan your permanent membrane work within months, not years.
Edge metals, flashings, and the small details that stop big leaks
Edge details fail more often than fields. Rebuilding a rake with proper drip edge, a continuous strip of self-adhered underlayment lapped onto the fascia, and closed shingle cut lines gives better wind resistance than nail-and-go. On tile, rake closure pieces keep wind from getting under the first course. I’ve seen whole tile runs pop off because the rake closure was missing on one gable.
At wall transitions, always check step flashing. Storms drive rain up and sideways, so baking in redundancy helps. Properly layered step flashing with counterflashing or a well-sealed reglet beats surface-applied goop every time. If you have stucco, look for hairline cracks near the roofline. Water wicks behind small cracks and shows up as “roof leaks” that are really wall leaks.
For penetrations, replace boot flashings if they’re older, not just the sealant. UV in Miami cooks neoprene collars in seven to ten years. An inexpensive new boot with a stainless clamp and a dab of sealant is worth it. On metal roofs, use compatible sealants; butyl or polyurethane for metal, not generic silicone that releases over time.
Material sourcing after a storm, without getting fleeced
After big storms, supply chains tangle. Shingle colors go on backorder, certain tile profiles vanish, fasteners sell out. Good contractors plan around it, but homeowners can help by knowing what matters. Performance beats color match short term. If you need emergency shingle replacement, ask for a wind-rated product that meets Miami-Dade approvals even if the shade is off, then discuss whether a later color blend will be acceptable. Keep a small cache of extra tiles or shingles once supply returns. Ten to twenty spare tiles of your profile tucked in the garage can save weeks later.
Verify Miami-Dade Notice of Acceptance numbers on materials. Sales reps sometimes mean well but mix up approvals. Ask to see the NOA document or look it up online. If someone offers you an “equivalent,” pause and confirm. Inspect fastener boxes. After hurricanes, counterfeit screws sometimes flood the market. The heads strip, washers crack, and you end up with leaks around fasteners within a year.
Working with contractors and your insurer without losing your mind
Most homeowners only hire a roofer once or twice in a decade. After hurricanes, the field gets crowded with pop-up companies and out-of-state crews. Don’t let urgency erase due diligence. License, insurance, references, and familiarity with Miami-Dade code are non-negotiable. Ask for recent hurricane repair references in your neighborhood. A roofer who can talk you through your exact tile profile and underlayment options is more valuable than the cheapest bid.
On the insurance front, read your policy’s hurricane deductible terms. It’s often a percentage of your dwelling coverage, not a flat fee. I’ve sat at kitchen tables explaining why a 2 percent hurricane deductible on a $500,000 policy means the homeowner essentially self-funds the first $10,000. That affects repair scope decisions. If a partial repair keeps you under the deductible and buys a few solid years, it may be the sane choice, provided it meets code.
Public adjusters can help in complex claims, but choose carefully. Some push for full replacements even when the roof can be responsibly repaired. A balanced roofer works well with a fair adjuster; they both want a defensible scope that withstands scrutiny. When possible, involve the roofer in the adjuster inspection. I’ve gotten approvals for needed substrate replacement because I could show soft sheathing or failing underlayment right there on the ladder.
Timeline and expectations in the real world
Even in the best of times, a well-managed hurricane repair has phases. Day one to three often focuses on dry-in and documentation. Week one to three is assessment, permitting, and material procurement. If you’re dealing with tile, the wait can extend to six to eight weeks when specific profiles are scarce. Shingles and metal typically move faster, but eave metals and specialty flashings can bottleneck.
During that wait, maintain the temporary protection. Check tarps after every afternoon thunderstorm. If wind kicks up, listen for fluttering edges and address them before night falls. Inside, keep humidity below 55 percent with dehumidifiers to prevent mold. If a ceiling sags, puncture a small hole with a screwdriver to drain it safely into a bucket, then back the area with a temporary board. Water weighs a lot. Letting it pool risks a sudden ceiling drop that causes more damage than a controlled release.
Practical fixes for common post-hurricane problems
The most frequent leak source I see after storms is at valleys where debris piled up. Clearing the valley and hand-sealing lifted shingles with a minimal bead of roofing cement can stop a persistent drip. Don’t smear cement over the entire valley; it traps debris and accelerates failure. The second most common is at ridge vents. Older vents with low profiles can let in horizontal rain. Upgrading to a baffle-style ridge vent with end caps significantly reduces this. On tile roofs, unsecured hip and ridge tiles often shift. Reattaching with proper screws and storm-rated foam or mortar, and installing new ridge metal where absent, stabilizes the run.
If your soffit panels blew out, treat that as more than cosmetics. Soffits regulate attic intake ventilation. Without them, wind drives rain straight into the attic, and your attic becomes a vacuum that tugs at the roof from below. Replace soffits promptly, and confirm intake vents are not clogged with insulation.
On metal, backed-out fasteners are a subtle threat. Replace with new screws of the correct diameter and length, with stainless or coated heads and intact EPDM washers. Don’t rely on dabs of sealant over old screws; that is a six-month solution in Miami sun.
The code backdrop without the jargon
Miami-Dade’s high-velocity hurricane zone standards exist because our weather punishes shortcuts. The core ideas are simple. Secure the edges, build redundancy into water control layers, and use fasteners and materials tested for uplift. That means closer nail spacing for shingles, continuous underlayment coverage with proper laps, and metal details that tie into structure, not just skin. If someone proposes a fix that ignores the edge metals and flashings, they are skipping the parts that fail first.
Permitting for repairs is not red tape for its own sake. It gets another set of eyes on the scope and ensures you use approved systems. Emergency measures can precede permits, but permanent work should enter the record. When you eventually sell, clean permits are evidence you did it right.
Avoiding the classic traps
A few patterns repeat after every storm. Be wary of crews that promise to “work your deductible” with freebies or inflated scopes. That can cross into insurance fraud, and insurers have become aggressive in their responses. Another trap is focusing on aesthetics over function. I’ve replaced perfectly matched shingle patches that leaked because the underlayment wasn’t lapped correctly. Prioritize the water path, then the look.
Don’t neglect gutters in the repair plan. Reattaching bent gutters without adequate slope or with loose hangers dumps water where your roof just got patched. Install new hangers at closer spacing, and ensure downspouts clear slab edges. Water management is a system, not a single line item.
Finally, don’t over-seal. The temptation to caulk everything leads to trapped moisture, especially around tile and metal. Use sealant where the detail demands it and where materials move at different rates. Rely on mechanical laps and layered flashing for the rest.
Building back stronger for next time
A hurricane is a stress test. Use it to make targeted upgrades. Simple changes pay off. If you’re redoing underlayment on tile, add a secondary water barrier of self-adhered membrane at eaves and valleys. On shingle roofs, step up to six nails per shingle and high-wind starter strips along rakes and eaves. Replace basic drip edge with a profile that better engages the underlayment and fascia, and secure it with the right fasteners at closer spacing.
If your attic gets stuffy, consider adding balanced ventilation that doesn’t invite wind-driven rain. Gable vents can be problematic in storms; upgraded ridge vents paired with protected soffit intake generally perform better. For flat roofs, consider tapered insulation to eliminate ponding areas. Water that doesn’t sit doesn’t find seams to exploit.
I often recommend a roof inspection at the start of hurricane season and again afterward if a storm passes within 50 miles. Residential roofing repair A trained eye takes an hour to catch a lifted shingle tab, a hairline crack in a tile, or a missing screw in a piece of edge metal. Fixing those in dry weather costs far less than emergency work in the rain.
A brief story from the field
After Irma, we handled a mid-century ranch in Westchester. The roof was a mixed bag: shingle on the main gable, a low-slope modified bitumen over the Florida room, and an aging clay tile porch. The owner wanted to patch the shingles and call it a day. In the attic, I found daylight along a rake where the drip edge had peeled back and the sheathing had split along a seam. The low-slope roof had a clogged scupper and water lines eighteen feet from the drain. We drew a scope that replaced the shingle section with a full self-adhered underlayment and wind-rated shingles, reworked the rake with new sheathing and drip, swapped the low-slope membrane with tapered insulation at the back corner to kill the pond, and reset a half-dozen clay tiles with new underlayment at the porch transition.
It was not the cheapest route. It was, however, the last time that house leaked for the next five years, including two named storms. The owner sent me a picture of his grandson playing under a dry ceiling. That’s the scoreboard I care about.
What to keep on hand in Miami homes
A small kit makes a big difference in the first 48 hours. Think of it as a homeowner dry-in set, not a contractor toolbox. Keep a roll of high-quality plastic sheeting, one medium blue tarp, a handful of 1x3 furring strips, a box of exterior screws with washers, a tube of polyurethane roof sealant, a small roll of butyl tape, and a painter’s multi-tool. Add a headlamp and a cheap moisture meter. Store it in a tote you can grab when the wind dies.
Final pass: a calm plan when the storm passes
Roofing repair in Miami after hurricanes rewards a measured pace. Stabilize smartly. Document thoroughly. Plan repairs that respect how your specific roof sheds water and resists wind. Upgrade the layers you don’t see, because those are the ones that buy peace during the next long, loud night. If you bring patience, a little skepticism, and a focus on fundamentals, your roof will keep doing its quiet job, long after the news trucks drive away.